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Can’t say for sure. How much of the slip yoke shaft do you still have available engagement with? That might make the difference.DD, I guess I neglected to say the diff that I am replacing is the factory limited slip that has water damage/pitting and is noisy as hell. I am of the mind set that the truck was born with a limited slip and I would like to replace it with like at a reasonable cost from a reliable vendor. I am now thinking that this particular vendor only has the long yoke to offer me as normally they come with a yoke. I do see short yokes on the web for sale that are noted that they will work with either style pinion supports while others state they will not work with the Daytona style. I could go with their standard yoke and replace my already new Ujoint with a /150 type (added expense) and straps (added expense).
This is the first time I’ve ever heard that Daytona pinion support requires a different yoke. Maybe it just never got mentioned before, and just was done as a matter, of course. And probably a lot of those were replacing the driveshaft anyway, so different lengths didn’t matter.
And with your stated use, why the trouble (and expense) of making it a limitedslip differential, with only 28 spline axles?
Maybe it’ll be fine. In the old days that was a recipe for broken axle shafts. But most of those were seeing some off-road action. At least it’s not running big tires and a Detroit locker!
But if you decide you need all that, and it does have to come with the long yoke, then the new u-joints would be the least of your expenditure worries.
Chances are it’ll work. But if not, you’ll either get a new driveshaft of the correct length, or shorten the existing one.
Then again, that could also be the same time you change back to a double cardan type!
The snowball continues to roll down the rabbit hole!
Lots of differential experts here though, so maybe one of them can give you the insight.A long yoke vs short yoke has nothing to do with the length of the pinion bearing counter-bore. (Which happens to be long and short).
I don’t think we know that it’s definitely a problem yet. Just that I posted up about potential problems.
Maybe it just comes down to how compressed your driveshaft slip yoke is already.
Maybe that's what they were referring to, but I automatically thought of the length of the exposed part, from the slinger/shield to the u-joint retainers.Yes, you were thinking correctly. Long vs short usually the length of the exposed part. The Currie video from the link by @Bustedbroc shows that, but is silent on the Daytona difference.
I had a 3rd member from a T-bird with 3.0 something gears, that had a pinion snubber and a yoke that was much more extended than the Bronco type.
I never had it apart to view the inside, but since it wasn't a Daytona pinion support type anyway, that aspect may not have changed. But the distance from the chunk casting to the u-joint was quite a bit more.
Paul
Yes, you were thinking correctly. Long vs short usually the length of the exposed part. The Currie video from the link by @Bustedbroc shows that, but is silent on the Daytona difference.James and DD, this is what I found in my search for a drop in 3rd member.........
And I thought we were talking about the difference between Daytona yokes, and standard yokes. (...and I've never seen a factory short Daytona yoke) Not sure what it would have come in.
Plenty of aftermarket Daytona yokes out there, and plenty of factory Daytona yokes.
James and DD, this is what I found in my search for a drop in 3rd member.........You are missing my point, but it doesn't matter. You already ordered the Speedway unit, and it will be just fine for your application.
short pinion yoke, "Features a machined relief cut to clear standard and Daytona pinion supports". (some I have found do not support Daytona)
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Drop in 3rd member I ordered. It happens to have both a Daytona pinion and short yoke. FYI, Daytona pinion support was not a personal requirement. It just happened to be on what I thought was the best bang for my buck.
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"The pinion gear is connected to our new, forged steel “Ford short”, -type pinion yoke"
You are missing my point, but it doesn't matter. You already ordered the Speedway unit, and it will be just fine for your application.Gotcha, when the new unit comes in I will post some pics. I will also post pics of new and old with a tape measure showing the distance from the third member housing gasket face to the pinion yoke U-joint strap face as this distance was my concern.
Just in case someone else stumbles this thread, the point is that the distance from the pinion bearing face to the end of the pinion retaining nut threads is DIFFERENT for the standard vs Daytona support. There are several dimensional differences, but the only one that is visually obvious is the depth of the counter-bore. It turns out that the yoke seal shield, and the depth of the yoke splines are ALSO implicated in the counter-bore length...but you can't see it by the naked eye. I'm assuming that most anyone can see the difference between a 4 inch yoke, and a 5 inch yoke.
It is impossible to make a single yoke that is correct for both Daytona AND standard pinion support. You will notice that Speedway motors very CLEVERLY states that their yoke is cut to clear standard and Daytona pinions. But the standard yoke has about a 1/4 inch deeper counterbore than Daytona. (The Ford Racing M--A replacement yoke says to machine off .250") If you use a standard yoke on a Daytona support, it will push the seal surface OUT by about 3/16", and it will push the yoke splines OUT by the same distance. This moves the nut OUT about 3/16 of an inch. In almost all cases, it will prevent the nut from reaching the prevailing torque crimp section of the top of the nut.
Nowadays, I just machine off about 3/16 of an inch from the end of the yoke to keep the seal and the nut in the right place.
I am confident that your complete assembly will be just fine. But it would be nice to see a picture of your new third-member when it arrives!
Doesn’t look like any of the aftermarket Daytona models I’ve seen either.You got me thinking. Quick google and this site says the "Daytona" option has a larger "rear" pinion support bearing. To me that means that it would not be visible from the exterior. If you look at my tape measurement it appears the "new" 3rd member yoke extends approx. 1/4" more from the housing. Works for me, glad this saga is over. Now I see my fuel pump leaking! LOL.
Can’t remember the last time I saw an original, so I don’t really remember what they look like, or what the differences are.
But it sure has the look of an aftermarket replacement stock setup.
Hopefully one of the actual experts will have some insight.
You got me thinking. Quick google and this site says the "Daytona" option has a larger "rear" pinion support bearing. To me that means that it would not be visible from the exterior. If you look at my tape measurement it appears the "new" 3rd member yoke extends approx. 1/4" more from the housing. Works for me, glad this saga is over. Now I see my fuel pump leaking! LOL.Just in case somebody stumbles onto this thread in the future...
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