Knight Electric Motorcycle 5000w | Page 2 - Endless Sphere

I own a very similar motorbike to the ones you're talking about. Had it for about two years now as my daily ride.
See here: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=



There are several versions of those bikes, probably from different manufacturers. The plastics will differ as well as the shocks,and powertrain, but the main frame usually remains the same.
For what I can see on the pics, the ones you're showing are the "lesser quality" ones. The shocks are tiny, same thing goes for the brakes and the plastics look to be the cheapest so they won't like at all the UV light.

That being said, they are quite a good basis and you can do a lot with them, But you'll need to DIY a lot if you want to have something nice.
Don't get me wrong, they should work fine out of the box, but I bet they'll use the cheapest motors, cheapest controllers and cheapest batteries so don't expect something crazy or reliable.

I suggest you the following upgrades:
-look up for your motor specs
-Depending on your motor specs, see what is the best controller you can afford. I believe you should be able to go for 200Amps continuous (4-500Amps/phase) if you're lucky to have a W motor or more. Changing your controller will make a huge difference in terms of performance, but will kick your battery pretty hard so at this point you'll have to plan for a better battery.
-Go for lithium. But you'll have to find a battery with a high continuous discharge rate, which is not so easy, because the bike wil still be heavy so the controller and basically all the powertrain will have to work harder for a much longer time than an ebike would in order to reach top speed.
-Reinforce your chassis. This is vital, the welds are usually horrible and the tubes seem to be bent with a hatchet. Total garbage.
-Change your shocks, this is a must
-Change your brakes, at least the front ones, probably a must too if the bike comes equipped with floating calipers
-Put some vinyl sheets onto all your plastics. This will protect them against UVs so they won't disintegrate in 6 month.
-Change the garbage tires.

About the size, it seems to me that they are very slightly undersized compared to an equivalent 250cc. I'd say they are 90% or 95% scaled. But that might also be because the rear whell is only 16 inches.

Anyway, those bikes have flaws for sure, but they are quite a good basis to work on. Relatively lightweight, plenty of battery space, awesome looks and relatively nice and stable ride once modded. Seems overly expensive in the US though... Thanks for the reply! Glad to see another member riding one of these bikes. Come to think of it i have already watched your youtube drag vids on the other guys thread. I almost bought a 250cc magician also.

Cheap and bad quality is my middle name so im excited to see what comes in the mail! I do have a KLS kelly controller i will probably use to get programming and regen. But yes i need to find out what motor i get on the bike first. Im hoping its atleast a w

I didnt think about the UV and the plastics but i have bought a set of ABS plastics from china for a Katana 600 i used to ride and they were the worst things ever so they will likely be similar to those. Look good from afar for a year.

What does your bike weigh? Seems like they are saying this one is only 265lbd but the sla battery is small on this version. Being under 300lbs makes me not super worried about the brakes and suspension for now, but i may say different on the first ride for all i know.

Also what did you pay over there? Since your saying $3k is expensive is US? This is the cheapest bike ive seen here

skeetab said: Thanks for the reply! Glad to see another member riding one of these bikes. Come to think of it i have already watched your youtube drag vids on the other guys thread. I almost bought a 250cc magician also.

Yep, that was me and my friend Marcus.

skeetab said: Cheap and bad quality is my middle name so im excited to see what comes in the mail! I do have a KLS kelly controller i will probably use to get programming and regen. But yes i need to find out what motor i get on the bike first. Im hoping its atleast a w

Let's hope it is, but there are different versions of W so let's hope it's a good one!
If you have a good W motor then you can expect to get very decent performance without having to change your motor, otherwise you'll need an upgrade. My W has plenty enough power and doesn't heat too much but it is not so far from its limit. W should give you a bit more slack.

skeetab said: I didnt think about the UV and the plastics but i have bought a set of ABS plastics from china for a Katana 600 i used to ride and they were the worst things ever so they will likely be similar to those. Look good from afar for a year.

Use some vinyl sheet on the outside and several layers of paint in the inside if you want the plastics to be more durable, it's an easy fix and it will make your bike look better too

skeetab said: What does your bike weigh? Seems like they are saying this one is only 265lbd but the sla battery is small on this version. Being under 300lbs makes me not super worried about the brakes and suspension for now, but i may say different on the first ride for all i know.

It used to be very heavy with the lead acid, somewhere around 170-180 kg if I recall correclty. Now that I've ditched this anchor I think it should be around 130-140kg.
About the forks and brakes, I never tried the standard fork so I cannot tell you how bad it might be, but as for brakes the ones generally fitted on bikes and scooters here are absolute garbage. They might seem fine at the beginning but after a few hard brakings they will fade totally and progressively become uneffective. But that's an easy fix anyway.

skeetab said: Also what did you pay over there? Since your saying $3k is expensive is US? This is the cheapest bike ive seen here

Well I bought mine second hand for around 700 usd including many, many mods (analogic dashboard, nice shocks, handmade seats, full carbon wrap, custom feet rests, nicer screws and hardware, and some other stuff I forgot). But you can find some very nice bikes like this at around - USD:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?mode=view&id=

Here is the link but I'm not sure it can be accessed from outside of China, you might need a VPN:
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.29.184f60d9qMwg22&id=&ns=1&abbucket=8#detail

Some bikes are even way cheaper, they generally start at around 500 bucks.

Also, those bikes probably don't comply with the regulations in your country, I don't know. They don't even comply with the regulations in China, riding them is theoretically not allowed. But somehow, selling them is.

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Diego Rodriguez

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I wanna buy a w kit but it doesnt come with a battery, therefore I was wandering what kind of battery would be suitable for such a setup

HumanPerson

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HumanPerson

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I wanna buy a w kit but it doesnt come with a battery, therefore I was wandering what kind of battery would be suitable for such a setup

Welcome to the forums, by the way!

Atavar

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A great effing big one. w is 7hp. You’re going to need beefy wheels forks and dropouts too.

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Diego Rodriguez

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A great effing big one. w is 7hp. You’re going to need beefy wheels forks and dropouts too.

a guy told me that i would need at least 25Ah and 80amps current, also if the motor says 72V ill need a battery with that voltage right? (im new to this)

Atavar

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Ask the people selling the kit to recommend a battery.
A watt hub motor is going to tear up spoked bicycle wheels and dropouts.
If this is a mid mount motor it will destroy a bicycle chain and sprockets.
80 amps will drain a brand new fully charged 40ah battery in less than a half hour.
Bicycles are designed for human power. A trained and fit professional cyclist can generate 300-400 watts of power. When you put more than ten times that to the machine stuff’s gonna break.
Think of all the problems Tim Allen had every time he said “More power!”
Having said that, you be you. Let us know how it works out.

m@Robertson

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If you are this green to the subject, consider NOT going to the hardest of the hardcore power levels for your first experience. Its pretty clear you don't know what you are getting into on multiple fronts. Battery amperage, voltage, bicycle frame and wheel construction...

We all have to start somewhere so I'm not being negative here. But you are clearly in WAY over your head and asking questions of people who aren't is not going to be enough to save your investment in equipment.

slitespd

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I wanna buy a w kit but it doesnt come with a battery, therefore I was wandering what kind of battery would be suitable for such

If you are this green to the subject, consider NOT going to the hardest of the hardcore power levels for your first experience. Its pretty clear you don't know what you are getting into on multiple fronts. Battery amperage, voltage, bicycle frame and wheel construction...

We all have to start somewhere so I'm not being negative here. But you are clearly in WAY over your head and asking questions of people who aren't is not going to be enough to save your investment in equipment.

I just measured the voltage on CR today . Imagine that!!

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I would not start with the 72 volt battery as there have been some documented fires that happened during charging. I am also building the same set up and decided to go with a pair of 52v batteries. Can still get with two in parallel or using a single. I would advise you look at a used downhill bike as theybseem to be a lot tougher. Also there is a company building a supervstrong set of gears and derailleurs.

topstone

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I would get 'a really big one' Ha ha

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Cybersnow

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I think the person was talking about a non bafang kit that advertises a 5k watt motor.

m@Robertson

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Yeah something like a QSMotor direct drive is where you'd be going for something like this. But even with a QSMotor, you still are probably looking at the really bigass one to get it to happily take 5kw.

Small - Bafang G060 (up to 1.5-2kw. ish)


Medium - QS205 (3kw-ish)

Ridiculous - QS273. 5kw and up

Cybersnow

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Actually I am looking at a CYC motor kit to replace the current Bafang kit on my hardtail MTB. If I can find a decent priced used downhill bike, I will donate the hardtail with the E bike kit.

m@Robertson

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I've got an X1 Pro that reaches 4 kw with a custom BAC800 controller. Its not something I would do again. Hearing that motor shrieking and watching that cart chain spinning so fast its traveling back in time... I haven't lost an ankle yet but I do worry about what happens if something lets go.

Cybersnow

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That is really good to know!! The last thing I need is to have a loud bike and be afraid of that short chain shredding. I currently have a BBSHD on a Salsa Fargo frame. I want just a tad more power climbing some of the steep fire trails. If I go with a rear wheel motor, then I need to replace more parts. Is there a reasonably quite mid motor kit that does better than watts peak if CYC isn't a good choice?

HumanPerson

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I'd think this would get you over w prolly over peak in your BBSHD


https://lunacycle.com/blog/luna-bbshd-ludicrous-v2-released/